From the bustling streets of Lima to the timeless wonders of Machu Picchu
Peru
Our 18 days in Peru adventure was an unforgettable blend of history, culture, architecture, and cuisine, complemented by breathtaking natural wonders. From the vibrant neighborhood of Miraflores in Lima to the UNESCO-listed city of Cusco and the charming town of Aguas Calientes, gateway to the awe-inspiring Machu Picchu, we were immersed in the country’s rich sights, sounds, and welcoming people every step of the way.
Lima
Lima is a sprawling, vibrant and culturally diverse city stretched out along the Pacific coast. It is known for its rich history, colonial architecture and modern urban developments along with an arts and culinary scene that rival some of the world’s greatest cities. Lima’s neighborhoods run the gamut from the historic heart of the city, home to the UNESCO-listed Plaza de Armas and grand landmarks such as the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, to the vibrant, ultra-chic districts of Miraflores and Barranco. If Lima were a record collection, its diversity would span the alphabet from A to Z.
It was in this vast and chaotic megalopolis that we began our long-awaited Peruvian adventure, with additional stops in Cusco and the bustling town of Aguas Calientes, the gateway to the awe-inspiring archaeological wonder of Machu Picchu.
Our four-night stay was at the recently renovated JW Marriott Hotel Lima located in the Miraflores neighborhood. With its elevated position above the coastline the 25 story, gleaming landmark, truly lives up to the real estate mantra of location, location, location. As one of the most recognizable buildings on the Miraflores skyline the hotel provides breathtaking views, especially from the higher floors.
Our 13th floor room featured floor-to-ceiling windows that provided stunning panoramic views. At night, we were treated to the glowing lights of Larcomar, Lima’s premier open-air shopping complex, home to upscale stores, restaurants, and entertainment. Pulling back the curtains each morning revealed dozens of surfers braving the chilly Pacific through a thin veil of fog.
Lima is well known internationally as a premier destination for high-end cuisine. As a result, it is very challenging to secure a table at many of the more popular restaurants. Fortunately for us, the hotel had several great options for dining, no matter the time of day. An added bonus was not having to deal with the round-the-clock traffic that Lima is also known for.
Each morning La Vista Restaurant laid out a sumptuous buffet and in the late afternoon it reopened serving fresh seafood, Peruvian specialties and international cuisine. The second floor also featured the JW Lounge and the JW Sushi Ceviche Lounge where we had several memorable meals of traditional Peruvian ceviche along with incredibly fresh sushi and sashimi. As with the La Vista Restaurant the talented sushi chefs were delighted to prepare us dishes that we would not have thought of as typical sushi or sashimi fare. The growing trend among luxury hotels around the world to incorporate world-class restaurants is something that the JW Marriott Lima does exceptionally well.
Like many big cities Lima, and the surrounding environs, is a constant tangle of cars, buses, taxis, motorbikes and pedestrians. Ranked among the thirty most populated urban areas in the world with an estimated 11M inhabitants it’s not difficult to imagine the challenges of navigating a city of this size.
Our sole day trip was a ride across Lima to visit the famous Plaza de Armas de Lima which, as it turned out, was completely devoid of people when we arrived due to a planned demonstration that required the entire plaza to be cordoned off. So much for our one-and-only excursion!
The entire team at the JW Marriott Lima, from the porters and drivers to the front desk and restaurant staff, were incredibly attentive and friendly. Their personalized service always made us feel like we were the only guests. When we needed to extend our stay due to a hurricane hitting our home town of Savannah, Georgia on the day of our scheduled departure the management was very accommodating in spite of being fully booked.
Cusco
Making our way to the Jorge Chávez International Airport for the flight to Cusco was another opportunity to witness the vastness of Lima. Although we were passengers it didn’t take long to realize that driving in Lima is not for the faint-of-heart. There are speed limit signs and traffic lights yet they seem to exist as mere suggestions, not to actually promote legal compliance. In a city of this size, congestion and traffic jams are a constant feature. Thanks to our driver’s good advice, we allowed plenty of time to reach the airport.
Arriving at the Lima airport meant dealing with another wave of congestion in the form of tens of thousands of passengers. Calling it chaotic would be an understatement, yet we eventually found our gate, and before long, we were wheels up for the hour-and-a-half flight to Cusco.
Deplaning in Cusco we immediately felt the shock to our system from the oxygen robbing altitude. Going from 505 feet above sea level in Lima to close to 12,000 feet in Cusco can tax your breathing, balance and cognitive function. Fortunately our hotel offered in-room supplemental oxygen to help restore our breathing, yet it still required a couple of days to acclimate.
For the next four days we enjoyed a memorable stay at the JW Marriott El Convento Hotel. Built in the 16th century as the San Agustín Convent, the El Convento is located just a few blocks from the lively Plaza de Armas with its stunning mix of Incan and Spanish architecture.
Our days were spent exploring the plaza, surrounding streets, alleyways, museums, art galleries and the must see Mercado de San Pedro. Designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, that Gustave Eiffel) this vibrant, bustling market is a great place to get a genuine taste of Andean culture. The market offers an eye-popping cornucopia of exotic juices, food stalls, handwoven textiles and silver jewelry along with ceramics and pottery. What sets this market apart from so many others it that it is where locals actually shop for groceries, household items and herbal medicines.
The market also offers an array of exotic goods, including various witchcraft-related items such as dried herbs, potions, and powders used in shamanic ceremonies. Some vendors were more than happy to perform spiritual cleanses along with fortune-telling services. For first-time visitors such as ourselves the market was a sensory overload, which, upon leaving, left us wondering…what just happened in there!
As the cultural heart of Cusco, the Plaza de Armas is often the stage for weddings, military parades and a variety of celebrations and ceremonies. As daylight fades and the sun sets behind the surrounding mountains, the plaza feels like being in a painting as the warm glow of lights from churches, restaurants, and shops cast an enchanting mood over the square.
Hungry for a good meal and a couple glasses of Peruvian wine we ended our days at the Qespi Restaurant. Located in the intimate bar area of the El Convento Hotel the restaurant was the perfect place to relax over quinoa salad, plates of chicken skewers cooked over hot coals and trout served with yellow potatoes, avocado and chalaquita…all classic Peruvian dishes artfully presented.
Sleep came easy each night as we lie in bed reminiscing about our daily adventures while contemplating the upcoming four-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes and the final leg of our journey to the majestic Citadel of Machu Picchu.
Aguas Calientes
On day five we woke to brilliant blue skies and a keen sense that another adventure was awaiting us. Breakfast on the courtyard at El Convento was all that we needed before meeting our driver who would take us to the Wanchaq Train Station for the five hour journey to Aguas Calientes.
With tickets in hand we boarded the bright blue and yellow PeruRail train and quickly took our seats. Soon we were climbing out of the high-altitude basin in a series of increasingly steep switchbacks until we flattened out on our way to Poroy station, our first of three stops for the day. From there it was smooth going as we sliced our way through the Sacred Valley on the way to Aguas Calientes. Although the rainy season had yet to arrive we could see that the mighty Urubamba River was still flexing it watery muscles.
The busy Ollantaytambo Station was our second stop and within 20 minutes of loading and unloading passengers we embarked on our final, and most scenic, leg of the trip. For the next two hours we were treated to stunning (if a bit dry) views of the Andean landscape as we ran parallel to the Urubamba River. In addition to the stunning views offered by the Vistadome train, we were treated to an extra bit of entertainment from a five-piece band playing traditional Andean music as well as some popular jazz tunes.
As we approached the Machu Picchu station, a palpable sense of excitement washed over us. Stepping off the train into the misty air, we were greeted by towering green peaks, where numerous waterfalls cascaded down sheer cliffs like wispy horsetails. It felt as though we were in a mystical dream.
Soon after exiting the train we began hearing a mix of languages and accents combined with the visual overload of the gift shop and a sprawling artisan market where stalls overflowed with alpaca wool products, ceramics, paintings, jewelry and other Peruvian crafts.
Luckily, through the sea of people we spotted our porter enthusiastically waving us toward him. With our bags loaded onto his cart, he accompanied us to the luxurious Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel for our five-night stay. In just two days, we would find ourselves visiting one of the world’s greatest treasures, and like countless eager travelers from around the world, our arrival marked the culmination of months of careful planning.
Nestled deep in the Andes mountains Aguas Calientes, officially known as Machupicchu Pueblo, is the gateway town to Machu Picchu. It sits at an elevation of roughly 6,700 feet above sea level (a huge relief from Cusco!) along the Urubamba River, surrounded by lush cloud forest and steep green mountains.
The town has a vibrant, yet relaxed feel with a mix of international travellers and locals and the pedestrian friendly streets and alleyways make it easy to get around on foot. In some ways it reminded us of the once pristine beach town of Playa del Carmen, Mexico before that town yielded to uber development. The food scene is what you would expect from a tourist driven town and the same goes for the souvenir shopping.
Needless to say, the reason that most people visit the Pueblo is to experience the Citadel, either by taking the 30-minute, multiple hairpin (and hair-raising) bus ride or enduring a roughly 2-hour, heart-pumping hike up the mountain. During our back-to-back visits, we opted for the bus, which gave us considerably more time to fully absorb and enjoy our experience.
After visiting the Citadel two days in a row, we left with the realization that words on a page or countless Instagram photos cannot come close to capturing the overwhelming beauty, grandeur, and awe inspired by the Lost City of the Incas.
It is, and always will be, one of the world’s truly magical places.
