The underground rivers of Xcaret are a geological marvel
Playa del carmen
Mexico
The underground rivers of Xcaret are a geological marvel forming part of an expansive network of freshwater rivers and cenotes (natural sinkholes) found throughout the Yucatán Peninsula. These intricate cave systems and subterranean waterways have evolved over thousands of years, representing some of the most significant geological features in the region.
Since opening in 1990 Xcaret has become one of the Riviera Maya’s hottest destinations, drawing millions of tourists and locals to this eco-archeological, watery wonderland. Far from its roots as a pre-Hispanic cultural and commercial center that lived and thrived in the area, today Xcaret serves as a multi-venue water park as well as an entertainment, dining and cultural extravaganza.
During our trip in May of 2023 (our third to the park) we were as excited to swim in the underground rivers as we were on our previous two trips. Driving the road through the jungle that leads to the entrance we immediately sensed that the park was going to be crowded even though we had arrived fairly early. It was clear to us that there is no “low season” at Xcaret!
Although there are over 50 different attractions, shows and interactive activities within the park we chose to escape the crowds and explore the three distinct underground rivers. With tickets in hand we headed for the lockers, stored our gear and picked up our hot pink life vests for our day long adventure into this magical world.
For our first swim we chose the Río Subterráneo (Underground River). Each of the three rivers have a distinct look and feel to them so if your going to swim all three in one day it’s simply a matter of taking the plunge into one or another as their entrances are roughly in the same location. At the entrance of Río Subterráneo we happily let a couple of families go ahead of us so as to experience the crystal clear water in solitude. The near total darkness of this river is not for the faint-of-heart although there are occasional openings that allow glimpses of filtered sunlight through the jungle canopy above. Another feature of the Río Subterráneo that may come as a surprise to newcomers is the enormous bat cave containing thousands of bats hanging from the walls and ceiling. From the darkness of the bat cave we emerged into a large, light filled galleria that is topped with a stunning stained glass installation depicting multiple butterflies in blazing colors. It is a mesmerizing sight especially after exiting the near total darkness of the bat cave!
Three rivers and close to five hours later we emerged through the mangroves into a large open pool with stone steps leading up to the deck of the river. With sea legs announcing their arrival we returned our vests and retrieved our gear before heading to the bluffs above the beach for some downtime in one of the many hammocks strung from palm trees overlooking the azure blue water of the Caribbean.
There is nothing like several hours of swimming to whet the appetite, so after a brief and well deserved siesta we tumbled out of our hammocks and headed to the Baja California restaurant for a late lunch before departing back to Playa del Carmen. Relaxing in the large, open-air palapa overlooking the Caribbean we enjoyed a leisurely meal of guacamole, grilled octopus and fish tacos along with a couple of ice cold cervezas. It was a fitting end to a high energy afternoon.
By the time that we left the park the crowds had grown substantially which is something we hadn’t noticed due to being underground for most of the afternoon! Before too long daylight would give way to nightfall and, for many in the park, the evening festivities would begin. Not wanting to drive back to Playa del Carmen in the dark we decided that we would save the popular after hours show tracing 500 years of history from the pre-Columbian era to the beginning of 20th. Century Mexico for our next visit.
Sufficiently waterlogged and exhausted we collapsed into the comfort of our bed while listening to the sound of waves lapping at the shore just outside our room. Sleep came fast and easy.
